Most people plan a Helsinki city break around the obvious things: the harbour, the Market Square, a sauna and maybe a ferry to Suomenlinna. Food usually means salmon soup, rye bread and a cinnamon bun. All good choices. But if you have two or three evenings in the city, it is worth giving one of them to a cuisine you may not have tried before.
Georgian food is a good candidate. It is generous, built for sharing and easy to like even for picky eaters. And in central Helsinki, you do not have to go far to find it.
Where it fits in your itinerary
A lot of a first visit to Helsinki happens around the same few streets. The Esplanadi park, the Market Square and the harbour all sit within a short walk of each other.
A short walk from the harbour, on Eteläinen Makasiinikatu, is Navigator House, an Art Nouveau building from 1905. From 1915 until the 1950s it was the headquarters of the Finnish shipping company Effoa. Today it is home to Winest, a Georgian restaurant in Helsinki founded by Lika Mamukashvili, who moved to Finland in 2023.
The location makes it easy to plan. Spend the afternoon around the harbour or on Suomenlinna, walk back through the Esplanadi, and you are there in a few minutes.
A short guide to Georgian dishes
If the menu is new to you, these are the classics of Georgian cooking worth knowing:
- Khachapuri: bread baked around melted cheese. The Adjarian version is boat-shaped, with butter and egg stirred in at the table.
- Khinkali: large hand-folded dumplings filled with meat and a hot broth.
- Pkhali: spreads of vegetables such as beetroot or leek, blended with ground walnuts and herbs.
- Badrijani: thin slices of fried aubergine rolled around a spiced walnut paste.
- Shkmeruli: grilled chicken in a garlic and sour cream sauce.
Walnuts, fresh herbs and garlic come up again and again. If you like Mediterranean or Middle Eastern food, you will feel at home quickly. Dishes change with the seasons, so have a look at the current menu before you go.
How to eat khinkali (without making a mess)
Khinkali come with a small learning curve, and Georgians will happily show you. Pick the dumpling up by its twisted top, like a handle. Take a small bite from the side and sip the broth first. Then eat the rest, but leave the knot of dough on your plate. Counting the leftover knots is a common way to see who ate the most.
Order for the table, not for yourself
Georgian meals are not built around one main course each. The usual way is to order several dishes and share them. For two people, three or four plates is a good start. You taste more, and the evening slows down in a pleasant way.
There is even a word for this. In Georgian, a feast is called a nadimi: a long table, many dishes and plenty of time.
Do not skip the wine
Georgia has one of the oldest wine cultures in the world. Archaeologists have found traces of grape wine in Georgian pottery from around 6000 BC. The traditional method, fermenting wine in large clay vessels called qvevri, is listed by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Winest works with wines from small Georgian family cellars. If the names on the list are unfamiliar, ask for a recommendation. That is half the fun.
Travelling as a group?
City breaks with friends, family trips and small celebrations often need a table for more than six. Winest has a private room called the White Room for 10 to 25 guests. Groups order a shared menu named Nadimi, at €59 per person, and get their own server and their own music for the evening.
Practical tips
- Book ahead for Friday and Saturday evenings. You can book a table online, which saves a wait when the city centre is busy.
- Go hungry. Georgian portions are generous, and the bread alone can fill you up.
- Combine it with a walk. The harbour and the Esplanadi are close by, and an evening walk along the water is a good way to end the night.
A city break is short, and most meals end up being a quick stop between sights. Make one dinner the exception. Georgian food is made for long evenings, and Helsinki is a good city to have one in.
